Fares slashed to save UP Express

The inevitable fare reductions on the UP Express Train, linking downtown Toronto to Pearson Airport, come into effect on 9 March 2016. The Globe and Mail has the story. Just as PunchBuggy predicted last July fares have been slashed. The premium service is toast and the scapegoating has started. Uber anyone? They didn't see it coming.

Trains running on empty

Pic by Ron Stockey.
We went to check out the Union Pearson Express, the new train linking downtown Toronto with the airport. PunchBuggy is all in favour of public transit, but something has gone badly wrong here. We saw three trains viewed from the Toronto Railpath. I did not see a single passenger on any of these trains. I can only conclude that the pricing policy of $27.50 for a single trip, which takes 25 minutes, is an offer the passengers have refused. Look out for some pricing action before too long.

Trains running on empty

Pic by Ron Stockey.
We went to check out the Union Pearson Express, the new train linking downtown Toronto with the airport. PunchBuggy is all in favour of public transit, but something has gone badly wrong here. We saw three trains viewed from the Toronto Railpath. I did not see a single passenger on any of these trains. I can only conclude that the pricing policy of $27.50 for a single trip, which takes 25 minutes, is an offer the passengers have refused. Look out for some pricing action before too long.

Friends in low places

We left Lewes on Sunday evening by very overcrowded 2-car train for overnight stop in a convenient B & B at Ashford, the Cornerhouse, and a cheap lukewarm 'Italian' meal in Wetherspoons. Then early departure next day on Eurostar for Lille (avoiding Calais). Breakfasted on croissant and coffee at the Terminal where check-in was quick and friendly. There were overunning engineering works, but we had no connection to make at Lille. Mid-morning departure from Lille on bicycles (two Bromptons, one Loopwheels) for Amsterdam via Zandvoort, out on the coast. Richard on Brompton P type, 6 speed Sram; Jack on customised H type with P bars, 6 speed Brompton/Sturmey - which has to be the tallest Brompton in the world! The Loopwheels bike has no spokes, features belt drive, disc brakes and 11-speed Alfine hub gears.
Stage 1: 8th June. Lille-Ronse, 38 miles.
I lost the boys in the suburbs of Lille on the road to Hem, before we left France. With no map, compass or tools I started to busk my way east following the Canal de L'Espierres for some distance, crossing the Schelde near Warcoing, to reach Hérinnes. Somewhere along the way I learned that Ronse is Renaix in French, helpful when navigating by road signs and bus timetables. Lunch consisted of an energy bar. Not far short of the target near Mont-de-L'Enclus I punctured the front tyre on a drawing pin. With no prospect of mending it I walked on, reaching Garage Dewolf. They took pity on me and put the bike in the back of an estate car, then they drove me to Hostellerie Lou Pahou, Zuidstraat 25, 9600 Ronse. It is just amazing how fair people can be. I reached the hotel before my companions who had at one stage got hopelessly lost trying to get out of Hem, despite all modern navigational aids. They had though scored sandwiches and tarts. The main party crossed into Belgium at Nechin. We garaged the bikes, planning to fix the flat in the morning.
To Italian restaurant Il Pinel'lo, Grote Markt 9, 9600 Ronse. 136.80 EUR for three, reasonable value. The fair was in town.
Stage 2: 9th June. Ronse-Brussels, 49 miles.
Front puncture soon fixed at Jacky-Sport, zonnestraat 163, 9600 Ronse. Quick release on front wheel made removal a cinch.
Depart 10:00 on long climb out of Ronse at start of up and down day. Aldi shopping. Tea stops at two rural bars, Boekkouter and Hemelveerdegum. Picked up a cycle path along the River Dender, all the way into Ninove, where we lunched outside a superette on Beverstraat. Separated out towards Gooik. Glad to eventually see the tower blocks of Brussels in the distance. Took the Groene Weg to Anderlecht, busked to the Grand Place in Brussels. Phoned the boys from the Ibis Hotel, Grasmarkt 100, Rue du Marché aux Herbes 100, 1000 Brussels, while enjoying large (cheap: 5.00 euros per demilitre) Stella beers in the sunshine, requesting rescue. Main party had stopped for coffee in St-Kwintens-Lennik, and also entered the capital by way of Anderlecht. Modern self-catering apartment at Residence Opera, rue de l'eveque. On corner of square near Theatre Royal. The boys took some while to locate the remote check-in bureau but spacious, comfortable, and good value. Supper at nearby Mexican Restaurant: Chi-Chi's Tex-Mex, Anspachlaan 5, 1000 Brussels.
10th June at leisure in Brussels. Morning visit to Atomium on tram, return via underground. Lunch at the apartment. Obligatory viewing of the Mannekin Pis. Pleasant evening in the bar of the Ibis, followed by chips and waffles in the street, and nightcaps at the bar L’Ecuyer, near our apartment, where we earlier had breakfast. Local beer could be had for as little as 3.20 euros per demilitre.
Stage 3: 11th June. Brussels-Wouwse Plantage, 61 miles.
06:45 depart Brussels northbound via Grimbergen. Cool. Follow Zeekanal Brussel-Schelde. Tea stop at Willebroek, by lift bridge. Picnic lunch stop on fringes of Antwerp by tram terminus, then ploughing through the interminable docks in hot weather. Eventually reach pleasant countryside, via Stabroek, taking us to Putte in Holland. Immediate improvement in cycle lanes and signage. Stop for double Orangina at Restaurant Jagersrust, Putseweg 21, 4641 RS Ossendrecht. Last lap into Wouwse Plantage, running on empty. B&B Ouwerveldezicht, Schouwenbaan 10, 4725 ST Wouwse Plantage (3 rooms, 58 euros pp), beer, swimming pool on arrival. Nightcap, stout breakfast for cyclists. Good value. Ride to Restaurant-Taverne Kwizien, 2 km, outstanding dinner outdoors 136.80 EUR plus tip for 3.
Stage 4: 12th June. Wouwse Plantage-Nieuwerkerk, 54 miles.
Headwinds through the polders into Rotterdam, via Steenbergen. Lift bridges, intriguing derelict buildings. Picnic lunch on island, Hellegatsplein at river crossing. Even the motorway bridges here provide for cyclist transit. After a nasty mile-long run against the headwind, very friendly air-conditioned pitstop for ice creams at gas station, where attendant spoke perfect English and was a keen cyclist. Offer from other friendly locals to investigate squeaky, rough-running rear wheel, but no time. Passed through Heinenoordtunnel, a separate bore for cyclists and a cold plunge. Got separated on final approach, baffled but rode down the dyke to Niewerkerk.
Hotel Nieuwerkerk, Parallelweg Zuid 185, 2914 LE Nieuwerkerk a/d IJssel (trouble finding hotel as it is not called the Van Der Valk, a chain name). Superior digs. Jug of fizzy water and apple juice to rehydrate. Nice supper on the terrace. Attitudes of numerous young hotel staff vary from cool rudeness to helpful 'customer-focus'. Loopwheels bike stashed in storeroom. Crashed out.
Stage 5: 13th. Nieuwerkerk-Zandvoort, 44 miles.
Via excellent cycle paths through Zoeterwoude to Leiden, which has much of the charm of Amsterdam but without the crowds. Passing towns with familiar names from previous visits. Apart from about 20 minutes of heavy rain, very helpful weather with strong tailwind to Hotel Zeespiegel, Hogeweg 70, 2042 GJ Zandvoort. Italian Restaurant MMX, Haltestraat 13, 2042 LJ Zandvoort. Acceptable. Watched Le Mans 24 Hours on bar TV.
14th June. At leisure in Zandvoort, 14 local miles. To Circuit Park Zandvoort for cycling exhibition. We test ride a number of electric bikes, plus lap of short circuit. Loopwheels bike attracts much attention. Picnic in town. Later Porsche winning Le Mans on TV in a bar. Chris Froome wins Critérium du Dauphiné. Greek Restaurant where, just as in Greece, all meals taste like school dinners.
Stage 6: 15th June. Zandvoort-Amsterdam, 25 miles.
Early start through the dunes to pavement breakfast at De Complete Bakker Portvlies, 279 Bloemendaalseweg, Overveen. Remorse that tour is ending. On into Amsterdam, tea at pavement cafe in western reaches of the city, enjoying the bicycle culture, short tour to Rijksmuseum. Train home via Brussels: first class all the way to Ashford, with plenty of freebie food and alcohol on offer. I travelled, like Jack, as a senior so got it all cheap!

Total: 285 miles approx.

Plus Points: Minimal luggage. New bike better than Brompton on the rough stuff, including pavé. GPS navigation; weather mostly good; tailwinds, health benefits (the gift that keeps on giving). Yet again the Bromptons totally reliable though, and much easier to fold. Cycling infrastructure, with much running separated from vehicles.
Thanks to Harvey at Cycleshack2, Lewes, for fettling Loopwheels bike.

Downsides: Headwinds, punctured Continental tyre, teething troubles with new bike, getting separated (mostly unlike previous tours), no mobile phone. Foldabilty of new bike not a patch on Brompton.

Learning points: The Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyre an option for Loopwheels bike. Get mobile.

Overall: Good tour in low countries, a classic.

Friends in low places

We left Lewes on Sunday evening by very overcrowded 2-car train for overnight stop in a convenient B & B at Ashford, the Cornerhouse, and a cheap lukewarm 'Italian' meal in Wetherspoons. Then early departure next day on Eurostar for Lille (avoiding Calais). Breakfasted on croissant and coffee at the Terminal where check-in was quick and friendly. There were overunning engineering works, but we had no connection to make at Lille. Mid-morning departure from Lille on bicycles (two Bromptons, one Loopwheels) for Amsterdam via Zandvoort, out on the coast. Richard on Brompton P type, 6 speed Sram; Jack on customised H type with P bars, 6 speed Brompton/Sturmey - which has to be the tallest Brompton in the world! The Loopwheels bike has no spokes, features belt drive, disc brakes and 11-speed Alfine hub gears.
Stage 1: 8th June. Lille-Ronse, 38 miles.
I lost the boys in the suburbs of Lille on the road to Hem, before we left France. With no map, compass or tools I started to busk my way east following the Canal de L'Espierres for some distance, crossing the Schelde near Warcoing, to reach Hérinnes. Somewhere along the way I learned that Ronse is Renaix in French, helpful when navigating by road signs and bus timetables. Lunch consisted of an energy bar. Not far short of the target near Mont-de-L'Enclus I punctured the front tyre on a drawing pin. With no prospect of mending it I walked on, reaching Garage Dewolf. They took pity on me and put the bike in the back of an estate car, then they drove me to Hostellerie Lou Pahou, Zuidstraat 25, 9600 Ronse. It is just amazing how fair people can be. I reached the hotel before my companions who had at one stage got hopelessly lost trying to get out of Hem, despite all modern navigational aids. They had though scored sandwiches and tarts. The main party crossed into Belgium at Nechin. We garaged the bikes, planning to fix the flat in the morning.
To Italian restaurant Il Pinel'lo, Grote Markt 9, 9600 Ronse. 136.80 EUR for three, reasonable value. The fair was in town.
Stage 2: 9th June. Ronse-Brussels, 49 miles.
Front puncture soon fixed at Jacky-Sport, zonnestraat 163, 9600 Ronse. Quick release on front wheel made removal a cinch.
Depart 10:00 on long climb out of Ronse at start of up and down day. Aldi shopping. Tea stops at two rural bars, Boekkouter and Hemelveerdegum. Picked up a cycle path along the River Dender, all the way into Ninove, where we lunched outside a superette on Beverstraat. Separated out towards Gooik. Glad to eventually see the tower blocks of Brussels in the distance. Took the Groene Weg to Anderlecht, busked to the Grand Place in Brussels. Phoned the boys from the Ibis Hotel, Grasmarkt 100, Rue du Marché aux Herbes 100, 1000 Brussels, while enjoying large (cheap: 5.00 euros per demilitre) Stella beers in the sunshine, requesting rescue. Main party had stopped for coffee in St-Kwintens-Lennik, and also entered the capital by way of Anderlecht. Modern self-catering apartment at Residence Opera, rue de l'eveque. On corner of square near Theatre Royal. The boys took some while to locate the remote check-in bureau but spacious, comfortable, and good value. Supper at nearby Mexican Restaurant: Chi-Chi's Tex-Mex, Anspachlaan 5, 1000 Brussels.
10th June at leisure in Brussels. Morning visit to Atomium on tram, return via underground. Lunch at the apartment. Obligatory viewing of the Mannekin Pis. Pleasant evening in the bar of the Ibis, followed by chips and waffles in the street, and nightcaps at the bar L’Ecuyer, near our apartment, where we earlier had breakfast. Local beer could be had for as little as 3.20 euros per demilitre.
Stage 3: 11th June. Brussels-Wouwse Plantage, 61 miles.
06:45 depart Brussels northbound via Grimbergen. Cool. Follow Zeekanal Brussel-Schelde. Tea stop at Willebroek, by lift bridge. Picnic lunch stop on fringes of Antwerp by tram terminus, then ploughing through the interminable docks in hot weather. Eventually reach pleasant countryside, via Stabroek, taking us to Putte in Holland. Immediate improvement in cycle lanes and signage. Stop for double Orangina at Restaurant Jagersrust, Putseweg 21, 4641 RS Ossendrecht. Last lap into Wouwse Plantage, running on empty. B&B Ouwerveldezicht, Schouwenbaan 10, 4725 ST Wouwse Plantage (3 rooms, 58 euros pp), beer, swimming pool on arrival. Nightcap, stout breakfast for cyclists. Good value. Ride to Restaurant-Taverne Kwizien, 2 km, outstanding dinner outdoors 136.80 EUR plus tip for 3.
Stage 4: 12th June. Wouwse Plantage-Nieuwerkerk, 54 miles.
Headwinds through the polders into Rotterdam, via Steenbergen. Lift bridges, intriguing derelict buildings. Picnic lunch on island, Hellegatsplein at river crossing. Even the motorway bridges here provide for cyclist transit. After a nasty mile-long run against the headwind, very friendly air-conditioned pitstop for ice creams at gas station, where attendant spoke perfect English and was a keen cyclist. Offer from other friendly locals to investigate squeaky, rough-running rear wheel, but no time. Passed through Heinenoordtunnel, a separate bore for cyclists and a cold plunge. Got separated on final approach, baffled but rode down the dyke to Niewerkerk.
Hotel Nieuwerkerk, Parallelweg Zuid 185, 2914 LE Nieuwerkerk a/d IJssel (trouble finding hotel as it is not called the Van Der Valk, a chain name). Superior digs. Jug of fizzy water and apple juice to rehydrate. Nice supper on the terrace. Attitudes of numerous young hotel staff vary from cool rudeness to helpful 'customer-focus'. Loopwheels bike stashed in storeroom. Crashed out.
Stage 5: 13th. Nieuwerkerk-Zandvoort, 44 miles.
Via excellent cycle paths through Zoeterwoude to Leiden, which has much of the charm of Amsterdam but without the crowds. Passing towns with familiar names from previous visits. Apart from about 20 minutes of heavy rain, very helpful weather with strong tailwind to Hotel Zeespiegel, Hogeweg 70, 2042 GJ Zandvoort. Italian Restaurant MMX, Haltestraat 13, 2042 LJ Zandvoort. Acceptable. Watched Le Mans 24 Hours on bar TV.
14th June. At leisure in Zandvoort, 14 local miles. To Circuit Park Zandvoort for cycling exhibition. We test ride a number of electric bikes, plus lap of short circuit. Loopwheels bike attracts much attention. Picnic in town. Later Porsche winning Le Mans on TV in a bar. Chris Froome wins Critérium du Dauphiné. Greek Restaurant where, just as in Greece, all meals taste like school dinners.
Stage 6: 15th June. Zandvoort-Amsterdam, 25 miles.
Early start through the dunes to pavement breakfast at De Complete Bakker Portvlies, 279 Bloemendaalseweg, Overveen. Remorse that tour is ending. On into Amsterdam, tea at pavement cafe in western reaches of the city, enjoying the bicycle culture, short tour to Rijksmuseum. Train home via Brussels: first class all the way to Ashford, with plenty of freebie food and alcohol on offer. I travelled, like Jack, as a senior so got it all cheap!

Total: 285 miles approx.

Plus Points: Minimal luggage. New bike better than Brompton on the rough stuff, including pavé. GPS navigation; weather mostly good; tailwinds, health benefits (the gift that keeps on giving). Yet again the Bromptons totally reliable though, and much easier to fold. Cycling infrastructure, with much running separated from vehicles.
Thanks to Harvey at Cycleshack2, Lewes, for fettling Loopwheels bike.

Downsides: Headwinds, punctured Continental tyre, teething troubles with new bike, getting separated (mostly unlike previous tours), no mobile phone. Foldabilty of new bike not a patch on Brompton.

Learning points: The Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyre an option for Loopwheels bike. Get mobile.

Overall: Good tour in low countries, a classic.

Ridin' on the City of New Orleans

Toronto was underwater, after widespread flooding, as we prepared to set off for our train trip to New Orleans, which departs from Chicago. We rode the subway and streetcar to Billy Bishop City Centre Airport, Toronto’s great little downtown runway, for the flight to Chi-town. Enjoying the free coffee, snacks and newspapers in the lounge our Porter flight was only forty minutes late departing. A result considering we spoke to a couple headed for New York who had been delayed for two days.
We arrived at Chicago Midway, shot through customs and took the Orange Line to Quincy on the loop, $2.25 per person. A short walk a few blocks west, across the river, and we arrive at historic Union Station, where we checked our baggage at the Metropolitan Lounge. Nearby Lou Mitchell’s at 565 West Jackson Boulevard provided the diner experience for lunch, somewhat on the tourist beat but worthwhile for a treat, $31.88 for two plus tip. We then took a walk around the loop to the public library, the books-on-sale section being a shadow of its former self. At Barnes & Noble I bought “Car Guys vs Bean Counters – The battle for the Soul of American Business” by Bob Lutz, $16. (How GM nickel and dimed itself into oblivion.)
Back at Union Station we settle into the subterranean waiting room. Our Pullman host Jessica says we will be boarding at 19:20 for the scheduled 20:00 departure. Passengers are embarking for all points of the compass but I look around for fellow Pullman passengers in vain. Jessica informs us that we are the only passengers for the private railcar and that we will have our own steward (Jody) and chef (Daniel Traynor). We are shown to the Master Suite, with double bed, in the Pullman car called Pontchartrain, attached to the back of the Amtrak “City of New Orleans.”
We leave bang on time and are shortly joined at the rear of the train by Amtrak conductor Mary. On reaching 21st Street we back around on track B2 to BNSF Main 3, crossing over to Main 1, then up the St. Charles Airline to 16th Street Tower, where we join the Illinois Central tracks, now CN. Mary is a fundie when it comes to Chicago railroading, pointing out relics of B+O, CSX, Santa Fe, Grand Trunk and Rock Island as we head out of the city. Another landmark we pass is the old Pullman factory.
The Big Easy is 934 miles away so we change for dinner, smart casual, and try to get used to being waited on hand and foot. The relish tray features pickled watermelon rind, a southern speciality, in the first of four courses. I settle for gin and tonic, Chardonnay and Courvoisier to accompany the meal. No mint julep.
Day 2. Next morning I am up early enjoying the ride through the swamp into Memphis, Tennessee. Coffee about six o’clock is most welcome as I stretch my legs on the platform. We reach the state of Mississippi with its hardscrabble towns of shacks and shanties. At Jackson I photograph the Capitol building in the distance. Legend has it that the statue of Robert E. Lee atop the building was turned around on refurbishment, so that he now turns his back on the north. We roll into NOLA mid-afternoon, passing Lake Pontchartrain, and catch a cab to our hotel at the Country Inn and Suites on Magazine Street. Comfy and quiet in a rustic older building. We crash out.
Day 3. Next morning we set off to walk the two blocks to the French Quarter bright and early before the heat of the day takes hold. We read the papers at Community Coffee at St. Philip and Royal. We look round the French Market but to our chagrin there are no streetcars running on the Riverside section. We stop by the National Parks tourist information where they have interactive screens showing films about New Orleans music.
We lunch at Pierre Maspero’s, 440 Chartres Street. A greeter lady was handing out menus on the street but shrimp and grits were not on the menu. After some haggling we secured this superb creamy southern delicacy at $17 a plate. I said: “this should be your signature dish!” I sample the Abita Amber craft beer.
We ride the Canal Street streetcar to Cemeteries, where the above ground graveyards are to be found. Day pass $3. After time out we ride the St. Charles streetcar in the rush hour which then short turns. Back at the hotel they are making a movie outside which involves mardi gras scenes. We scoop up the necklaces thrown by the actors from their faux floats. We have a sandwich supper from CVS.
Day 4. We take the Riverside walk, past Harrah’s Casino, to the Hilton Hotel to get some cash. I score a free newspaper. Back on the streetcar (Red then Green) we short turn once more on St Charles due to construction. We backtrack to Rite Aid, where Goldenberg’s peanut chews from Philadelphia are on sale at $1 a throw, water 50 cents. Our Rite-Aid discount card is earning its keep. We cross the street to Fresh Market, a supermarket in an old mansion and former funeral home, $5.25 for two coffees plus two delicious pastries sitting on the verandah. Deal!
We leave the streetcar at Lee Circle and walk to the Civil War Museum, $8 per person, recommended. We then walk back to the hotel where they directed us to Mother’s for lunch. This is a popular spot with down home cooking that involves queuing in the hot sun. We sample Seafood Gumbo and Red Beans and Rice. In the evening we walk to Mulate’s, for Cajun food and music, $65.22 plus tip. (Both these are tourist eateries outside the French Quarter.) We share crabmeat stuffed with mushrooms followed by blackened catfish. I sample the Pontchartrain Pilsner, $4.99 a bottle. The Cajun band Le Touché are performing and folk of all ages get up and dance. Good service.
Day 5. A rare occurrence for us, we take an organized bus tour to the sugar plantations of Oak Alley and Laura’s, situated on the Mississippi river in the direction of Baton Rouge. As the bus pulls into Oak Alley I spot a hummingbird feeding on a bush. I later spot some more. To my surprise not even the resident tour guide has seen them.
At Laura’s the Creole tour guide laments the influence of the Anglo-southerners – the abolition of the Code Noir before the Civil War (which allegedly provided a route out of slavery for those that desired it most, and is ignored in the history books) and official hostility to the French language in modern times. He stated that the original meaning of Creole was that you were born in Louisiana, spoke French, and were Roman Catholic. It had no racial connotation. He also criticized the abolition of slavery by the Yankees, which provided little or no relief for the slaves on the plantations. Things are never quite the way they seem.
We took a walk down Bourbon Street on Saturday night, (also Bastille Day week-end) at six o’clock. It is bedlam! There are too many guys in bras and mostly second rate rock music. What will it be like by midnight after too many hand-grenade cocktails? We retreated to the hotel and consoled ourselves with Abita beer and pizza at the bar. Earlier we were listening to WWOZ (dubya-dubya-oh-zee) in the Ten-Cent-Store.
Day 6. We hike a couple of blocks with our luggage to Canal Street. We take the recently opened UPT/Loyola streetcar to Union Passenger Terminal, which doubles as the Greyhound bus stop. The 1954-built concourse is splendid with a large pillarless area. Could this be one of the last passenger stations from the golden era to be built in the United States? A lady passenger, headed for the west coast via Chicago, is lamenting the loss of service on Jacksonville-Tallahassee-New Orleans, formerly part of the Sunset Limited route. We lodge our luggage with Amtrak and walk to St. Charles for coffee. We note the old streetcar tracks on Howard which, but for a short gap, connect Lee Circle to the train station. There are proposals to reinstate this section.
Joining the train at UPT we are held up by a snafu by the Amtrak crew whereby they passed a red signal in the yard and have to be stood down (in the UK known as a SPAD - signal passed at danger). I drink some Pinot Grigio in the Club Car to compensate, while we wait for another crew. We are joined in our two-car consist (Chebanse sleeping car, Adirondack Club car) by two couples, one from Illinois, one from Detroit. Champagne is flowing for an anniversary at dinner in the diner.
Day 7. We roll onto Chicago, after making a stop at Kankakee, arriving about 90 minutes late. We never did catch back the time lost at the start despite rolling at eighty plus m.p.h. on some sections. We hike across the Chicago River and find a taxi that is pointing in our direction, thereby avoiding a detour. We check in early at the Silversmith Hotel, at Wabash/Madison stop on the Loop, (our second choice as the Palmer House was fully booked). We head for the architecture boat tour on foot. Despite my dislike of tour boats this is a splendid trip. Annette buys me a beer to calm me down. The man at the microphone was both lighthearted and informative, the facts coming thick and fast, while not talking down to the audience. Outstanding. Late lunch at Corner Bakery Café, 360 North Michigan Ave. Free lemonade with coupons handed out on street. Then late supper al fresco on a warm night at Pizano’s Pizza and Pasta, round the corner from our hotel on Madison. Giant portions of pasta - Pasta Primavera: $14.95; Pasta A “La” Dino: $16.95.
Day 8. Up early for 07:00 breakfast at the Silversmith. Room charge $249, comfy but a bit spendy plus $40.84 room tax, ouch. Disappointing Continental breakfast in nice surroundings, free newspapers. I was trying hard not to end on a bum note! The Orange Line is right outside and we reach Midway airport in short order (unlikely that a taxi would be any quicker). The little Porter plane takes us home.
Would I go back to New Orleans? You betcha!

High style and low rent

Jan 24: Walk to Downtown Crossing and take the Red Line across the river, to Harvard Square, Cambridge, $2.50 per head single trip. Breakfast at COOP bookshop, walk on to Harvard Bookshop, where Annette scored The Sugar Barons, by Matthew Parker, $20. Back to Boston for early lunch at Wong's of Boston in The Corner Food Court, off Washington Street. Singapore noodles, vast portions, recommended. Quiet afternoon back at the hotel, where we split $16 pizza for supper in the hotel bar. Suitable.
Jan 25: Walk to South Station where we breakfast at Cosi, on the concourse: sandwich, oatmeal, two coffees, $9.50. We ride the 9:55 'T' train to Providence, Rhode Island, $20 round trip each. The ride takes just over an hour with numerous stops en route. We walk via the shopping mall, next to the station, across the river and climb up to the Brown House, 52 Power Street, for a tour of John Brown's House. This is not the home of the famous abolitionist, but a slave-trader responsible for the Sally slave-ship debacle and a friend of George Washington. After viewing his house I'd say his epitaph should be: "He lived well." Lunch at Cafe la France, 1 Citizens Plaza, Red Chowder and half sandwich. Walk on to Cafe Choklad, 2 Thomas Street, for coffee and cakes, $10.32.
Providence is a pleasant contrast to Boston, with many interesting old buildings, and an ideal distance for a day trip. We would have returned by Amtrak but delays meant we opted for MBTA. We bought some foot-longs at Subway for supper in our hotel room - menu fatigue is setting in.
Jan 26: Walk to Quincy Market. On the way we lament the loss of Filene's, the famed department store and former Boston flagship, which has been half-redeveloped and left to rot. We were planning to breakfast in Quincy Market, but there is a dreadful racket created by a keep-fit class. We resort to Cheers, a tired reminder of an aging TV show. The waiters are anything but cheerful. Scrambled egg, cheese omelet (not the veggie omelet ordered), plus coffee with refill, $26.94, $31 with tip. Pretty average. We walk to Christopher Columbus Park on the waterfront. It is too cold to linger so we backtrack to The Boston Athenæum which is a membership library and museum, founded in 1807. From there we walk across Boston Common to Boston Public Library, where I do some research into the history of The Sports Car Club of America, founded in this city circa 1944. We take a late lunch at Maggiano's, 4 Columbus Ave, $33.71, $41 with tip. Quite the best service since we arrived.
Jan 27: A quick breakfast at Dunkin' Donuts, where an old man is eating sardines from a can. By subway to the Museum of Fine Arts, 465 Huntington Avenue, to see the splendid exhibition The Postcard Age, Selections from the Leonard A. Lauder Collection. Time also for a quick look at Art in the Street, European Posters. Then back on the Green Line to Boston Public Library for more research. Walking home we stop at Pho Pasteur, 682 Washington Street, where the noodles are cheap and cheerful.
Jan 28: Up early and after 08:00 visit to Post Office to send a post card, we walk to South Station for the SL1 airport bus, $2.50 per head. Logan airport is pleasantly quiet, if airports can be pleasant this gets close. We take the 11:20 Porter Airlines flight to Toronto City Centre Airport. The pedestrian tunnel to the island is progressing nicely, only spoiled by noisy strikers picketing outside. (If I was an investor I'd get straight back on the plane.) Like Toronto, Boston is showing signs of decline, with plenty of empty shops and offices. Parts of the public transit system are neglected and lack investment. Having said that there is much of interest to occupy a week in Beantown.
Pic by Annette.

That was the year that was....

I've been having a rest from blogging while writing much other material.
This last year I have been travelling to many different places. January in Philadelphia for the 112th edition of the New Year’s Day Mummers Parade – a distant cousin to bonfire. Spring break in Louisville, Kentucky. May in California for the car racing at Laguna Seca. June riding through France on my Brompton bicycle, from Le Havre to St Nazaire, via Le Mans – 600 kilometres. July touring the southern states by smart car, including Nashville and a visit to see Elvis in Tupelo, Mississippi. September on the train from Toronto to Vancouver, returning via Sacramento to Denver on the California Zephyr train. October in Watkins Glen, New York doing some research. October/November in England on Rocket FM for Lewes Bonfire.
When the double-decker California Zephyr pulled into Sacramento Amtrak station I said: "Now that is a train!" We soon reached the massive Union Pacific yard at Roseville, CA, and climbed to Cape Horn with its view 1500 foot straight down to the American River. Through the snow sheds to Donner Lake and Truckee, California. Riding into Reno, NV, where the station is buried in a huge concrete trench and the view between there and Sparks does not suggest a tourist destination. More trailer park than tinsel town. Elko, NV, where we stopped on the Bonneville trip, is followed in the middle of the night by a stop in Salt Lake City. Bearded Amish folk in straw hats are waiting to board the train. You feel like you've gone back in time at least a century. After some 36-hours you arrive in Denver, after endless mountains and desert

After the Goldrush

We flew into Sacramento on Air Alaska and took a van downtown to the Best Western Sutter House. After Victoria, Sacramento was looking distinctly sorry for itself. Nearby Stockton has declared bankruptcy and there was evidence that the Golden State has been living beyond its means. But who could resist the old town, by the Sacramento River, with its glittering railroad heritage waiting to be explored. Our first evening we strolled to McCormick & Schmick's for supper in the bar at the Elk Building. The downtown looks quite sorry for itself with its share of boarded up shops and the usual racetrack one-way streets. Sacrificed to the motor car the place is largely deserted at night. The light rail cars connect to the suburbs.

Next morning we sample a Jim Denny's breakfast in an old diner adjacent to our hotel. This is the authentic experience. A mountain of home fries keeps us going all day. Other customers are faced with gigantic pancakes. We walk a few blocks to the old town and the California State Railroad Museum. We split our visit in two in order to take the short excursion train ride. Coffee at Steamer's Coffee & Tea Exchange prior to departure. The museum tells the tale of the Central Pacific which built east from here to join up with Union Pacific in Utah, the first transcontinental railroad - a trip we will be taking shortly. I buy a copy of the book "Stealing the General" by Russell S. Bonds, which tells the story of railroad shenanigans during the American Civil War. We also visit the Huntington & Hopkins Hardware store, reconstructed on a new site, brick by brick, and the Wells Fargo Museum. Supper at the Capitol Garage, 1500 K Street. "You were hungry" says the waiter. Breakfast at the Ambrosia Cafe, 1030 K Street, sunday morning and walk to the Capitol Building, with its marvelous arboretum. 
We walk on to the California Automobile Museum where we are shown round by docent Jim Whent. A Rambler convertible in the parking lot catches my eye. A special exhibition featuring vehicles from 1968 is well done with familiar auto magazine covers round the walls and an Austin America front and centre. We walk back to the Crocker Museum of art, an air-conditioned legacy of California railroad riches. Supper at Bangkok at 12, a Thai restaurant at 900, 12th Street, curry special.

By bicycle to Blighty-on-sea

After breakfast at the Bearpaw Bakery, "Get your Buns Down Here!, we take a final stroll around Jasper, including the railyards and the industrial estate, where we spot a red Rambler 2-door in need of TLC. One more coffee and it is time to board the train for the 14:30 VIA departure to Vancouver. We pass Mount Rogers in clear weather, an unusual occurrence, and Pyramid Falls, before bunking down for the night. Next morning we are at Chilliwack and up for 06:30 breakfast. We arrive in Vancouver at 08:45, ahead of schedule, and queue for the 09:45 Pacific Coach to Tsawwassen. All we see of Vancouver is the view from the bus.
A calm crossing on the "Spirit of British Columbia" ferry in blazing sunshine leads us to Swartz Bay, and another coach hop to Victoria bus station. The city creates a great first impression with a pleasant lack of graffiti. We take tea at Starbucks on Blanshard Street. We breakfast at Caffé Teatro, on Blanshard. The owner says tourism is 50% down, the increased currency allowance for visiting the U.S. has meant tourists going south for cheap gas and milk. We walk out to the Art Gallery of Greater Victoria where we score half price entry - the Emily Carr exhibits are what we have come to see and they are still on show. We walk through Beacon Hill Park, taking lunch at the Beacon Hill Drive-In, and continue on to the Emily Carr house where we take tea. Reb and Billy meet us at our hotel and we walk out to the lighthouse at Ogden Point breakwater. I need a beer after that.
On the Wednesday we rent some bikes and cycle out to Oak Bay, by reputation the most English settlement on the Island. We shop at a bookstore and stop for coffee on the way at the Moka House on Cook Street. Victoria has many splendid bookshops. A stop at the Emily Carr grave and we push on to the marina in Oak Bay for lunch. We hand the bikes back mid-afternoon for time out. We head for the Spaghetti House for supper, an uninspired choice as they are wait-listing customers while they have many empty tables, an obvious sign of incompetence. We bolt for it and find the Sticky Wicket pub more to our liking, where sixties covers band "Younger than Yesterday" are entertaining the punters.

Thursday we make a quick visit to the BC Archives, then walk out to Fishermen's Wharf, where we sample the fish and chips at Barb's Place. A $5 water taxi across the harbour gives us a close-up of the float plane passenger service. We stop at The Bay and I manage to buy a leather belt "Made in Canada." Early evening we grab a cab to the Pancake Manor Studios for a tour. After a delightful dinner in the garden we are shown backstage at the Manor - the charming secrets of the cartoon puppets Zach and Reggie. 
We are up early for 08:00 departure to Victoria Airport (YYJ) and flight to Sacramento (SMF). The light bus goes past the old railway bridge and we see where a revived railroad may run in the near future and the site of the 'new' terminus. A great visit to Victoria, B.C.

Searching for Lake Annette

Jasper, Alberta, turns out to be a top place. After much needed freshening up we stroll around this mountain tourist town. Supper at the Jasper Pizza Place, next door to the Hotel Astoria, on the rooftop patio, in the company of a bunch of boisterous Aussies, turning the air blue. This town is not cheap but suffering somewhat in the recession. A shop assistant, where Annette bought some sunglasses, said: "last year was the worst ever." Apparently the high-rolling Yanks on $5,000 fishing trips aren't showing up and the Europeans are also staying home.
It was freezing overnight so we breakfast at Papa George's, next to the Hotel - special $6.95. We rent some cheap 'Suede' bicycles, at Jasper Source for Sports, $20 each for 4 hours, helmet, lock, map, provided. I also buy some new cycling gloves.
We set off down Highway 16 to find Lake Annette, across the Athabasca River. Superb scenery on quiet backroads in the company of elk and friendly Gray Jay or Whiskey Jack birds. We are constantly consulting the map, which also takes us to Lake Edith. While returning cars parked on the highway prove an obstacle as gawkers stop to stare at the wildlife. The trip of about twelve miles was glorious and seemed to be downhill all the way. Back for a snack lunch outdoors at the train station. An afternoon visit to the museum reveals that the Yellowhead Pass was named for a person.
While searching for a restaurant we see the Rocky Mountaineer train arriving from the west. We eventually take supper at Cassio's, 602 Connaught Drive, good Italian food, not cheap ($84 incl tip for two), but the wait staff are overwhelmed by the arrival of a grupo. An ordered coffee never materialises. We beat the retreat.
P.S. Jasper is at 3,800 feet, but we didn't experience any difficulty cycling.
Pic by Annette.

Not quite full of prairie promise

Winnipeg has seen better days, about a century ago when the sky was the limit. We head up the Broadway, where the street cars used to run, and work our way over to Portage and Main, in the city centre. We are offered a free donut by some insurance folk in a random act of diet madness. We take coffee and WiFi at the library.
The Peg, like many other North American cities, has been ruined by one-way streets, four-lane race tracks designed to scare the bejesus out of pedestrians. Many historic buildings have met the wrecking ball and the town has a broken-toothed appearance. We just have time to duck into the streetcar museum, in a replica car, where we learn that the only survivor #396 is being restored. We return to the magnificent 1911 station on Main in time for free coffee and biscuits.

We head out west past Rivers, MB, and into the Qu'Appelle Valley. Soon we are passing the potash mines, a source of prosperity in Saskatchewan. We stop in Melville, SK, and I photograph an old Pontiac up a gantry at a bodyshop. Past endless sloughs we reach the CN Walker yard at Edmonton, AB, via Saskatoon and Ardrossan. We eventually reverse through this massive rail yard arriving at Edmonton VIA station at 05:17, followed by frühstück at 06:00. A large party of Germans is leaving the train here.
Edmonton has a miserable modern station in the suburbs, stuck between the City Centre airport and a grotty trading estate. Train travellers get no taste of the city, like in Ottawa. We depart not having spent a cent.
We repair to the dome car, heading west past numerous container trains with their Hanjin, Evergreen and Italia signs. We spot nodding donkeys pumping oil in the fields. The Grey Cup Special train, vinyl wrapped, is heading towards us. Our train now has a special observation car spliced in, not elevated but with a glass roof. We stick to the 1950s version. We reach the Pembina River gorge where the train pauses on the bridge. Passing large lakes to left and right we reach Edson, AB, a hardscrabble town with railyards, timber and fracking supplies for gas. Another whistle stop at Hinton and we reach Jasper, AB, in the Rockies shortly after 1:00 p.m. We are glad to detrain after three days of rock 'n roll.

The Canadian to the Pacific

Winnipeg, Sep 13: Depart Union Station Toronto, on time, aboard “The Canadian” VIA train, after TTC subway WAFTI (We Apologise For The Incovenience). We ride the new rail cars on the Yonge, University, Spadina subway line. After about half an hour the train reverses. “We are V-ing out. They took up the tracks ahead, sold off the land.” What do the many Germans onboard think of this? We are riding a slow train with authentic 1950’s ambiance. At Union Station you feel like you are stepping back into the past, as the station is forever a work-in-progress, refurbishments never quite finished, and the stainless steel railcars remind you of those National Geographic advertisements from childhood days.
“The train then turns north and travels on the Newmarket Subdivision until mile 13. There it turns down what is known as a wye, permitting the train to travel east on the York Subdivision before reaching the Bala Subdivision at mile 16. The train then turns northward.” Canadian Rail Travel Guide, Daryl T. Adair.
We pass Parry Sound and Sudbury Junction in darkness. Next morning for breakfast we are at Capreol, mostly stationary, with the CN freight yard on our right. Cheese & Spinach omelet for Annette. The fresh oranges are cut the wrong way! The train has five observation cars with triple-header diesel, riding along in the start of the fall colours. A Danish couple share our breakfast table, conversation is somewhat limited.
Folks from Fort Erie are disgusted with the Liberal government: “I’m a Liberal but they’ve done everything wrong!”. They have shut hospital, schools etc. The horse race track is closing costing 1200 jobs. There are hopes of a NASCAR track to boost the local economy, but the planning process is interminable. Tax in New York state, across the border, is driving people away to Florida. At least there is cheap housing in Fort Erie. We spot a Quaking Aspen trackside.
We are rolling through endless trees, forests, rocks, muskeg, rivers and cabins in the fall sunshine. There are regular stops for freight trains with double-stacked container cars. Ontario is living up to its name – “Land of sparkling waters.” I spot a large black bear ambling along trackside.
We stop at Hornepayne, ON, for a stroll and photo opportunity, in the afternoon sunshine. There is a large derelict station building which speaks of former glory.
Now at Winnipeg after 06:30 breakfast, waiting for the station to open, so we can take a quick look at The Peg. I am constantly thinking of poor George Ernest Willmett.

Steaming in Lancaster County

We overnight at Hershey Farm Restaurant and Motor Inn in Ronks, PA. After a splendid breakfast, with grits, we head for the Strasburg Rail Road and The Railroad Museum of Pennsylvania. These separate establishments are opposite each other. We ride the 09:30 Susquehanna behind Baldwin #90 for a 45 minute trip in Amish country.

Pics by RLT.

Lucky in Kentucky

A second day trip in our rented Nissan Cube took us to Elizabethtown, to Swope's Cars of Yesteryear Museum. Consisting of the personal collection of Sam Swope, car dealer, this free museum is his gift to the community. Among the mostly American cars was this Jaguar XK120.

The weather was kind for March with signs of spring everywhere.

On the return leg we stopped by Bardstown and happened upon R.J. Corman's My Old Kentucky Dinner Train.

Pics by RLT and Annette.

Philadelphia puzzle

Two questions were puzzling us in Philadelphia. Just where was the original Baldwin Locomotive Works and why were the railroad tracks nearby running in a trench below grade.
Research pointed to the works being in several locations and in a sense it was, as it covered four huge city blocks, bounded by Broad Street, Callowhill Street, 18th Street and Spring Garden Street (the yellow box shown below, the hatched green box adjacent being a commemorative park, which may also have formed part of the complex).

The rails were sunk below grade about 1900 eliminating many level crossings, as indicated on the tunnel arch (top), shown in detail below.

Pics by Annette.

Day trip to DC

While in Philly we decided to ride the Amtrak train to Washington D.C. for a day sightseeing. We were up early and caught the local train at the Suburban Station for the short ride to 30th Street Station. We booked on the 08:13 Amtrak NE Regional train #131 from Philly to D.C. and splurged on the Acela Express for the return leg ($70 each outward, $104 each return sector).
It was some 30 years since I rode these rails. The approaches to Baltimore were an eye-opener as street after street of rowhouses were all boarded up. The final approach into Union Station was also rather grubby, in no way suggesting arrival in one of the world's great cities. Once off the train however things immediately looked up as we headed for the Capitol Building on foot in bright but cold weather. A quick gander at the Supreme Court and the Library of Congress and we headed up Pennsylvania Avenue towards the White House. The party was flagging so we stopped in at Starbucks on Indiana, which was more like a drop-in centre with folk taking a nap.
The White House was much changed from years ago - the road to the south being blocked off and security in evidence everywhere. We had already passed the occupy camp at Freedom Plaza. We warmed up in the visitor centre in the Baldridge Building. We then walked south via the Washington monument - a great obelisk - and on to the Smithsonian Institution for a look at the Air-Space Museum. I'd been here before and the exhibits all had a dated feel and in need of a refresh. Across the way we had a quick look in the National Art Gallery.
I felt, what many others have felt before me, that Washington, with its grand scale and lack of industry, has an air of unreality. Far from the rustbelt in a political bubble it is easy for politicians to forget that any healthy economy relies on manufacturing.
We rode the 17:00 Acela Express #2222 back to Philly. The showpiece project of the Amtrak fleet was something of a disappointment as the train juddered and shuddered far too much to sway the doubters. Philadephia is the spiritual home of the American locomotive but here is a railway that has failed to move with the times. I wanted to like it but it is less than it could have been.
On arrival we took the subway to 13th Street for supper at the Banana Leaf, 1009 Arch St (mains $7.50, Singapore noodles recommended).
Pic by Annette.

Wrong side of the tracks

Still buzzing about our railroad adventures yesterday. We met a Letter Carrier who said the "marauders" had broken the window in this old railcar off Broad Street, close to the centre of Philadelphia.

We walked on a short distance to find the tracks all gone.

Weather unseasonably warm, high of 56° F expected today. We have grandstand tickets for the Mummers Parade.
Pics by Annette.

Tracking down old Philadelphia

Last night to Vietnam Palace Restaurant, 222 N 11th Street, on the edge of Chinatown. Veggie Spring Rolls, Garlic Shrimp, Eggplant Tofu, Brown Rice, Green Tea plus one bottle of '33' Export Beer - $36.82 plus tip. Recommended. On the way there is a Mummers band playing outside a press reception, for the Winter Classic ice hockey, at the Reading Terminal Market.

Early breakfast and we hike off up the Parkway towards the Philadelphia Museum of Art. Waiting for the Free Library to open we stumble upon Matthias Baldwin Park and an old railroad trackbed running in a trench.

After visiting the art museum on the hill we trace the old railroad running back to town. The trench turns into an overhead railroad east of Broad Street. The librarian told us that they hope to turn it into an overhead park, similar to one in New York. The dereliction in this neighbourhood shows that Philly has some way to go with urban renewal.

Pics by Annette.

Footloose in Philly

Last night to the Down Home Diner, 51 N 12th Street, for soup and sandwich, in the old Reading Terminal Market, $26.42 for two with bottomless coffee. There are streetcar tracks outside but no streetcar has been seen in a long time.
This morning walk down Market Street to the Reading Terrminal, now converted into a Convention Centre. On to see Independence Hall and the Liberty Bell - repelled by crowds of grockles - so we carry on via the City Tavern (now an upscale eatery, but once home to plotting secessionists) to the Delaware River. Great view upstream to the Benjamin Franklin Bridge.

Return via South Street, the antique district on Pine and up Broad Street. Philadelphia has some bike culture, almost entirely derailleurs and fixie with hardly a hub gear in sight. The sign below was displayed outside the Masonic Temple - what have the Masons got against cyclists?

We find the statue of Matthias Baldwin (1795-1866), locomotive manufacturer, on the north side of City Hall. The inscription simply says "BALDWIN" which is both flattering and uninformative at the same time.
Lunch at Jake's Real Italian Pizza and Grill, 201 N Broad Street, Ziti with Olive Oil, Garlic and Basil with Garlic Bread, $6.95; Veggie Wrap, $6.50.
Pics by Annette.