La Mans and beyond

We took a fresh approach to our Le Mans tour this year. Rather than riding from one of the channel ports all the way to the circuit, we took the train with the intention of cycling on day trips in the Sarthe and the Loir.
Day 1: Train from Lewes, via Eastbourne, Ashford, Lille, and Le Mans. This itinerary involved some tight connections but worked like a charm. There was even time for a quick tour of the old town in Lille, a bit hazardous over the cobbles on our Brompton bicycles. Coffee at a pavement cafe prior to departure. On arrival at Le Mans we took the tram to the circuit, then cycled via Guécélard to our digs at La Flèche, 29 miles. We were staying in a trailer on the Camping Municipale de la Route d'Or campsite by the river, close to the centre of La Flèche. Good value at Euro 57 per night for three. Restaurant Le Gargantua, 6 place Henri IV, 72200 La Flèche. Pizza starter followed by pasta for hungry cyclists outdoors.
Day 2: La Flèche to Marcé to visit the aircraft museum situated at Angers airport, 46 miles round trip. The museum is well worth a visit at this casual location. Home of the third plane of René Gasnier, first successful aviator in Angers. On the way back I was quickly tailed off on the climb out of Marcé, and settled into my own rhythm on the bike, without a map. Keeping the sun behind me I was much later surprised to find my companions coming up behind me. We covered 20 miles of undulating roads in two hours. Restaurant Ô Patio Gourmand, 44 rue Carnot, 72200 La Flèche in the evening.
Day 3: Exit La Flèche via the old derelict station, on a tarmac cycle path on the old railway line to Le Lude. This delightful run was covered at some speed, with Richard adopting the aero tuck of a time-triallist. We bought supplies and took a picnic outside the Mairie in Le Lude. We back-tracked on the path for a short distance before turning south west on the road to Baugé, with a pitstop in town for drinks, while Jack rounded up bicycle oil and batteries. Return to La Flèche via another bike path, this time dressed in fine gravel, shady on a hot afternoon. 45 miles. Comptoir du Boeuf, 1 place Henri IV, 72200 La Flèche. Less than satisfactory restaurant, the food did not match the service or location.
Day 4: La Flèche to Guécélard, 34 miles. This trip started with a brutal climb on the D12 out of town with a sharp left at the top onto rural roads. Three Course traditional lunch in Noyen, 11.5 Euros. Good night at Club Motorsport in Guécélard. Live music by “The Wobblers.” Much beer drunk.
Day 5: Guécélard to La Flèche. We went bushwhacking back to our digs, west of the main road, reaching La Flèche in 26 miles. Tired. We watched the Le Mans race on the TV.
Day 6: Exploring La Flèche taking in a flea market, the lakes, then out of town on the bike path to Luché Pringé, with a picnic by the Loir. 29 miles in all. Back in time to catch the end of the Le Mans race, another Audi demonstration run. Rated by Richard as "the best meal in La Flèche" - Restaurant La bisquine - 11 rue Henri IV - 72220 La Flèche.
Day 7: La Flèche to Le Mans. We tracked east successfully avoiding a steep climb, via St Jean de-la-Motte. Stopped at some ancient standing stones, La Mère et La Fille, in the woods. We bought lunch at Cérans Foulletourte, crossing the main road and pausing at La Suze sur Sarthe. We took the bike route into Le Mans, following the river with marginal surfaces, at 43 miles. A stretch of canal put us on final approach. The Ibis Budget hotel was adequate but the check-in arrangements were chaotic. A bar in town gouged us at Euro 6 for a small beer. Dinner at La Tagliatella, 9 Boulevard René Levasseur, suitable. Assorted low-lifes were dealing outside and a bin-diving lady opposite was rescuing trash from the Galeries Lafayette.
Day 8: On our last day the SNCF were on strike. We therefore diverted via Paris, riding our bikes from Paris Montparnasse to the Gare du Nord and changing our tickets for Ashford, completed by Eurostar rapidly and with a minimum of fuss.

Total: 252 miles.
Plus Points: Collaborative cycling (peleton), suitable distances, cycle paths, day-trips meant less luggage, reliable Brompton bikes, isotonic drinks, fruit, La Flèche a good base, good- value digs, Eurostar flexibility. (Personally I was fitter, better-prepared and therefore I performed better.)
Downsides: SNCF on strike.
Learning points: Take less luggage, more-suitable clothing (again).
Overall: Well organised, good company, health benefits, roll on 2015.

The Road to Rouen

Small Wheels bicycle tour, June 2013 
When touring on a Brompton the same incidents from previous years seem to happen all over again. First of all something drops off Richard's bike early on - this year it was a toe clip. Despite careful route planning we always seem to go off piste. We lack the foresight to carry basic supplies at all times and end up nearly "hitting the wall." We also worry too much about the weather. Dire forecasts of broiling sunshine and thunderstorms failed to materialise at crucial points. Overall it was a blast with only limited mechanical difficulties as we worked our way across the beautiful Normandy countryside to the Sarthe.
I am riding an orange long-wheelbase 'H' model Brompton, with custom handlebars and 6-speed Sturmey Archer gears, entered by Jack Kellett. Sadly Jack has to give this trip a miss so my partner in crime is Richard Banks aboard the familiar black 'P' model Brompton with butterfly handlebars and SRAM six-speed gears.
We set off from Lewes on the Sunday night by train reaching the port of Newhaven in plenty of time to catch the 23:00 ferry for Dieppe. We meet an assortment of other cyclists headed for unlikely adventures in la France Profonde. A lady of about seventy is riding to Versailles on a yellow Brompton 3-speed for charity. A younger couple are heading for Paris via the Voie Verte, having already completed the London-Brighton event. Bikes are banned on trains for the day of this ride, folders excepted, so they joke it will be easier to get back to London via Paris. An elderly gentleman is riding from Derbyshire to Avignon on a old road-racer - "I must get there as my wife is arriving." The camaraderie of cycling is infectious.
Stage 1
After some shots of Calvados in the bar we retire to our cabin for about three hours sleep. All too soon a man is making an unholy noise in the corridor urging us to rise from our slumbers. We are up and ready to rock, taking a quick coffee, then down the gangplank through customs and traversing Dieppe in the dark, on the ‘Road to Rouen’. We reach the D154 which gives us a relatively flat route south. The lack of traffic early morning makes for a relatively safe ride but of course no bars are open to take a drink or provide a croissant. We press on and after a couple of hours and sixteen miles I collapse into a chair outdoors at a café in the square at Auffay, being plied with Perrier and coffee, and after a change of shirt somewhat revived. We take trailfood en route and a pot of tea indoors in the rain at St. Victor, enjoying the Valley of the Scie and following the "iron compass," the railway built by the British in the pioneering days, on the D3 to Clères. There is an unexpected down hill section after the long climb from Torcy to Longueville, during which Richard stayed aboard. He has vowed not to get off on any hills and sticks to this. Chapeau.
We take the D155 to Montville and Malaunay, reaching the suburbs of Rouen, encountering the dreaded bendy-buses, then descend to the Seine, struggling to find our hotel on the west bank. A bus is honking at us as we enter an underpass in order to cross the river. Richard gives the driver an old-fashioned gesture. We are indoors at midday, our precious bikes safely folded in the hotel room at St-Sever. We take a rest and then struggle to find any restaurants serving food mid-afternoon. A veggie-burger and chips is scant reward for all our efforts. We tighten up the nut on the seatpost on the orange Brompton to counter a sagging saddle. Distance covered: 46 miles.
Rest day
Next day is a free day for sightseeing, starting at the archives for a quick bit of genealogical research. We take coffee at the fashionably-named Bar des Abattoirs, 33 rue Henri II de Plantagenêt. Richard acquires a new tour habit, adding a Calvados chaser at breakfast time. We walk into town across the river, seeing the Cathedral, Le Gros Horloge and the Printemps department store, and finding Rouen to be well worth a visit. Some small beers are followed by a trip to the Eglise Sainte Jeanne d'Arc and lunch al fresco at an excellent Italian restaurant, 40 Euros for two courses and a bottle of wine, including generous tip. We ride the tram back to our hotel, sampling some beers outdoors in the evening without venturing far. We dine at our hotel without breaking the bank: Hotel Rouen St-Sever, 20 Place de L'Eglise St-Sever, Rouen, 76100; Phone: +33235628182.
Stage 2
Next morning stage two takes us in the direction of Elbeuf, following the tram lines some of the way and avoiding the main roads. After another pot of tea in exurbia [Oissel] we divert on to a cycle path which rapidly runs out, another snafu at the chateau. We reach the Route des Roches guided by the Seine upstream in a towering limestone gorge. A right/left for Thuit Anger is the easiest route out of the Seine Valley that we can find, but still involves a long climb. We are making good time across the plateau among the wheat fields, via Iville, before desecending for pasta lunch at Le Neubourg, with its busy market, featuring many racks of clothes that have never been in fashion. Some irritating British old buffer tries to make fun of the Brompton bicycles, boasting about how he does nothing with his time in retirement. He doesn't know what he is missing. We wrong slot exiting Le Neubourg condemning ourselves to a windy ride across the prairie via Combon and Bray. We descend to Serquigny taking double-Orangina at a cafe where the patron produces two sugar crepes on the house. It is just amazing how fair people can be. We reach Bernay in good order riding across the cobbles, but there is a sting in the tail as we both climb out of town to the Hotel Acropole, 10 Rue Grande Malouve, Bernay, 27300; Phone: +33232460606. The adjacent restaurant provides beers on the terrace and we tuck in indoors while a thunderstorm erupts around us. Distance covered: 54 miles
Stage 3
Leaving Bernay, we choose the Voie Verte on an old railway line to Broglie. These bike routes are a mixed blessing, often among the trees with little to look at and cold first thing in the morning. This is cycling for softies, on routes, as in this case, which only go a short distance and are not worth a diversion. We acquire two bottles of Badoit at Broglie, needing the minerals in the water. An infusion at a café at Montreuil l’Argillé is most acceptable. We continue to Verneusses, then D232 to Huegon and Cisai-St-Aubin. A lady on the road stops me as she is anxiously looking for a lost dog. We take to the D338 south of Brionne where we quickly tire of the trucks on the main road, diverting to Le Merlerault for quiche and strawberry custard tart for lunch from a patisserie. A fountain in the village provides a welcome spray and wash. After Orangina at Sées, we take the quieter way, [D42, D309] via Bursard, arriving at Alençon running on empty late afternoon. Le Mans counterparts Dave Roadway, Martin Woodward and Stuart Batchelor join us for drinks at the bar. Hôtel Ibis Alençon, 13 place Poulet Malassis, Alençon, 61000; Phone: +33233806767. Recommended. Distance covered: 61 miles
Stage 4
We slip out of Alençon early via the historic centre, taking the D55 to Champfleur. There is a dilemna on this tour. Do you go bushwhacking and ride the quieter, more hilly roads with poorer surfaces or blast down the shorter main roads with the heavier traffic and their own long ascents? In reality you do a mixture of both depending on the mood. We reach Beaumont-sur-Sarthe on the main road heading for Montbizot. We choose to skirt Le Mans to the west, via La Bazoge and Allonnes. We meet Laurent Brochard, [1997 world road racing] cycling champion, and stop to chat. He is not riding a bicycle but a strange contraption with two paddles on which to stand. He quickly disappears up a hill. A pitstop for Orangina at a café and the patron insists on photographing the bikes and riders. We arrive at the Café de la Gare in Spay at 14:05. The boss, a veteran of Paris-Brest, fits us in for a late omelet lunch followed by tarte aux pommes. Distance covered: 48 miles. Total distance: 209 miles.
Postscript
On the Monday after Le Mans at Little Common when unloading the orange bike I notice it had sustained a puncture, subsequently found to be a nail through the tire. This happened right at the end of the tour, a relatively fortunate occurrence. At some point in France we fell to wondering why the orange bike did not coast as well as the black one. Back in Sussex I discuss the possibility of a dragging brake. Adjustments to the front brake by Jack produce a dramatic improvement in performance on a twenty mile test ride to Ripe, after the puncture was fixed. By the way Audi won the 24-Hours of Le Mans once again.

Plus Points: Collaborative long distance cycling, suitable distances, good-value hotels en route, reliable Brompton bikes, disposable clothing.
Downsides: Lack of sleep on the ferry, leaving Dieppe without drinks early morning.
Learning points: Feed before problems (again), stick with Badoit, more-suitable clothing, bike tune-up.
Overall: Well organised (many thanks for logistical support), good company, health benefits, roll on 2014.

Le Mans and beyond by Brompton

Small Wheels bicycle tour, June 2012

Mon 11 - Last minute repairs to the bikes at Future Cycles complete, we leave Lewes by train early evening. We were headed for the overnight ferry Portsmouth-Le Havre departing 23:00. Floods in the Chichester area divert us from Brighton via Clapham Junction, a shock for Jack who was looking forward to a break from commuting. We cycle from Portsmouth station to the ferry terminal checking in at 21:30. The catering arrangements put Portsmouth firmly in the craptown category: "The Carling is off" the barman announces triumphantly; chips but no fish; too late for pizza! Good old Blighty - rail chaos and slapdash service.
Tues 12 - A late night aboard ship is followed by an early start as we rig the bikes and head into the traffic in Le Havre, on the four Bromptons, in the wet. I was riding a 1999 short wheelbase 5-speed. The rest on more modern 6 speeds: Nigel on an 'M' model, Richard on a 'P' and Jack on an 'H'.
A driver with a swaying caravan needs admonishing. Nigel nearly takes a tumble hitting a wet drain cover but he wrenches the bike upright. We busk our way out of town finding cycle paths and then the D6015, D982 towards the Pont de Tarcarville. We are doing a steady 15-16 mph on the flat. We take our first pitstop at the Resto-Bar du Hode on the Route Falaises. The climb to the Tancarville sees me tailing off as I push the bike up the hill with the camions coming past. Great view of the Seine. We top 30mph on the descent, turning right and west on the D6178 into a headwind. We then turn left just short of the River Risle, on the D39 to Pont-Audemer. We are now in a rural delight where the pace slackens and the heavy traffic is left behind.

We take a restaurant lunch outdoors at Pont Audemer (pasta for me). We struggle to regain the D39-D137 to Pont-Authou. The derelict railway line adds interest. We pitstop for cherries short of town. Richard is suffering with his saddle, requiring constant careful adjustment. I am encountering a sagging seatpost. We then take the Voie Verte to Bec Hellouin, diverting to see the abbey. On to Bosrobert, at 49.2 miles, where a delightful chambre d'hôte run by a Swiss couple awaits. Some pear cider kicks off the celebration followed by a stroll in the garden. Supper consists of cream of courgette soup followed by Porc Normande in copious quantities. Wine and cheeseboard are demolished.

Marguerite & Roland Progin-Chopard, "Aux 2 étangs" 4, Route Moulin du Parc, 27800 Bosrobert Tel: 02 32 44 87 03
Wed 13 - 39.6 miles to night at Rugles. From Bosrobert we backtrack to Pont-Authou, then taking the road south to Brionne in the rain. We follow the River Risle on a marked cycle route, taking a right at the Viaduc du Bec. Before Beaumont-le-Roger we are passed by three serious cyclists as Jack, Nigel and Richard join the pursuit. Suddenly I am by myself as we head into town for a tea stop by the church. We purchase supplies at the Coccimarket.
Following a long descent we take a lunch stop at the mediaeval market hall in La ferrière-sur-Risle, buying more food at the boulangerie. Strawberries are most welcome. Back on the cycle route in hilly country even Nigel and Jack are off the bikes. We encounter soaking rain, diverting onto the D830 to Rugles, arriving at 15:00. The sun came out as we 'dried out' at a bar in town. Then to:

Mme Francoise Tobo Au jardin de Françoise 3 Rue G. Clemenceau 27250 RUGLES Tél: 02 32 24 76 24 Mob: 06 76 33 46 28 http://www.au-jardin-de-francoise.fr/

Our host is jolly and serves rice with the meal to stoke us cyclists. Some Ricard is also consumed.
Thurs 14 - 44.9 miles to Villaines-la-Carelle. Exit Rugles by a rural road following the Risle to L'Aigle for a tea stop in town, D3 to Moulins-la-Marche, D6 to Sainte-Scolasse-sur-Sarthe for picnic, we catch up with Nigel at Le-Mêle-sur-Sarthe, D4 to Blèves with stop for Perrier, Orangina and Pelforth, then long climb to Villaines-la-Carelle. We arrive in the village but the digs are still some way to go, down then up a long hill past a quarry. I'm fairly wasted on arrival in the farmyard but the B&B is run by a Dutchman and Heineken revives.
We take a truck to a Chinese restaurant in Mamers for late supper, where they are reluctant to serve noodles. We are joined by Helen, a Dutch person, who gives Jack a lift in her Toyota IQ. Home by taxi.

Bart & Gerda Huizinga Le Fay 72600 Villaines la Carelle Tel: 33-(0)243 97 73 40 GPS: 48.376334,0.297962
Fri 15 - 39.4 miles to Spay cabin. First off we take the truck to Villaines-la-Carelle, while Nigel climbs the hill on his Brompton. He arrives at the same time. We unload the bikes, exiting on the D202 to Vezot & Mont-Renault, turning right into a headwind on the D300 to Dangeul. After a tea stop we head for the valley of the Sarthe via Ballon, Montbizot, La Guierche, Neuville-sur-Sarthe and Coulaines, arriving at Le Mans. We take the tram to the circuit, for the short bike ride to Arnage and Spay. I take a short cut via the Mulsanne Straight to Hunaudières, through the chicane, arriving at Camping Houssay ahead of the pack. The Bar de la Gare beckons.

Sat 16 - From Spay to Club Motorsport at Guécélard by Brompton for tea and conversation with Pete Webber, beers at the bar in town followed by lunch at Le Peppino restaurant, an uncrowded joint on Le Mans weekend - recommended.
Sun 17 - Up early for the croissant run into town. From Spay to La Suze via Roézé-sur-Sarthe, relaxing with a beer at the Logis Saint Louis in the town square, and back. Andy joins us on the blue titanium Brompton. One way to Guécélard in the evening for supper, fold bike and return to Bar de la Gare with Andy in the Nissan March. Cheese platter and drinks.
Mon 18 - 43.8 miles to night at Tiercé, on the Sarthe. I manage a whole day in the saddle with no walking uphill. Depart Spay, D51 to Fillé, Roézé-sur-Sarthe, then left on the D23 to Malicorne-sur-Sarthe. We rendezvous with Andy at a teastop in the square. Back on the D23 we head for Durtal. Andy comes up alongside in the Nissan March while we are grinding out the miles. He scouts Durtal for us and guides us to Le Durestal restaurant for a pizza/pasta lunch, a bit spendy. We take the D68 to Tiercé among the trees, close by the River Sarthe but tantalisingly out of sight. On arrival we stop at an inhospitable bar opposite the Mairie, no cause to linger. Night stop with our genial host M de-Stoppani, who periodically plays the piano.

M de-Stoppani Chambre d'hôte et gîte rural La Drustière 49 rue de Porte-Bise 49125 Tiercé Tel: 02 41 37 07 73 Mobile: 06 98 99 14 24 http://www.chambre-hote-drustiere.com/ GPS: N 47° 37.468' W 0°28.146'
Tues 19 – 72.7 miles to Oudon, on the Loire. Trying to avoid the main roads we exit Tiercé on the D74 to Cheffes, then to Angers, via Cantenay Epinard and Avrillé, where we join the new tram route. A teastop at Angers and we divert into town for food shopping. We are guided by a cyclist to the south bank of the Loire at Les Ponts-de-Cé. We take a picnic by the river - real men do eat quiche.
We have strayed off our route and this proves to be the longest day. We climb to Rochefort-sur-Loire, stopping at the René Gasnier memorial, a pioneer aviator. I am hoping this is the last climb of the day - fat chance. Richard laughs as we blow through 50 miles and we are all in personal best territory.
We reach Oudon via Ancenis, but it is not over. A long climb to our digs flattens me. We then meet a Kiwi couple who are cycling from the Atlantic to Munich. 

M et Mme Gauthier Sous les Pommiers Pierre Blanche 44521 OUDON souslespommiers@orange.fr Tel : 09 71 46 84 21 mob : 06 03 06 14 96
Wed 20 - 49.6 miles to Frossay. We are supposed to take the 'Loire a velo' route to Nantes, but sundry navigational snafus mean it is lunchtime by the time we reach the city, via Mauves. The midges by the river are an additional hazard. We are at the point where fatigue is limiting bandwidth. A steak sandwich and a couple of tinnies help. We pass the Secodi-Perkins diesel works in Nantes. We see ‘La maison dans la Loire’ at Couëron, where we catch the free ferry across the river to Le Pellerin, a chance to put our feet up. More shopping for our evening meal. We follow the canal and stop to ask a lady the way to Frossay. On exiting the town I feel like I am hitting the wall with cramp, so take the last mile or two very gently. The delightful chateau was a hospital during WW2, in the St Nazaire pocket. We have our own picnic indoors, then the patron invites us for a digestif in the cave below. 

Chateau de la Rousseliere 44320 FROSSAY Tel: 02 40 39 79 59
Thurs 21 – A short morning hop of 17 miles to St Brevin-les-Pins on the Atlantic, via Saint-Viaud where we shelter from the rain. The boys duck into a supermarket on the outskirts of town and I miss them, rolling into the centre of St Brevin, taking tea at a cafe in the square. The toeclips have come into their own in the wet weather. I am sorry that the ride is all over. Nigel and Richard battle across the bridge to St Nazaire in the rain while Jack and I, reunited, catch the bus over the Loire, the driver dropping us near the hotel in Trignac. Fare two Euros. After lunch at Flunch we all take a taxi to the U-boat pens in town. We sample the bars and take supper at a Moroccan Restaurant.

IBIS Hotel, St Nazaire Trignac, 5 rue de la Fontaine Au Brun 44570 TRIGNAC Tel : 02 40 90 39 39 GPS : N4718’ 0.48 » W2 12’ 31.75”
Fri 22 - We cycle to St Nazaire station, which is rundown and grubby, not consistent with the TGV image. I buy a copy of L'Equipe. We take the first class train to Paris Montparnasse: 10.51 from St Nazaire, arrive Paris Montparnasse 13.45. We ride across Paris to the Gare du Nord, taking a beer nearby while avoiding panhandlers, pickpockets and pimps. 
Delayed 16.13 Paris Nord, arrive London St Pancras 17.36. London has its own special form of unpleasantness and we are glad to catch the train south with our possessions intact.

Plus Points: Rain (little sunburn), collaborative cycling, long distance cycling, reliable Brompton bikes, Chambre D'Hotes, SNCF.

Downsides: Rain, iffy navigation (exploit height bank), variable state of 'Loire a velo' route (at best a work-in-progress), British railways, Portsmouth Ferry terminal, security scare at Gare du Nord, London.

Learning points: Feed before problems, try isotonic drinks (St Yorre, Badoit have high mineral content), more training, avoid off-piste digs where possible, take less luggage (disposable clothing a success).

Overall: Well organised, good company, health benefits, personal best performances.

Trolly trip in Philly

We headed out into the suburbs on this 1981 Kawasaki trolley car (begs the question where would you buy a tram in the USA?). We were going to the Simeone Foundation Automotive Museum. This proved to be a world class collection in a most unlikely spot. We walked some two miles into an industrial estate, out close to the airport, and there it was. We were greeted warmly and given a pretzel at the desk - Petey the dog eyed me throughout. They let us photograph beyond the ropes, took us backstage into the workshop, and gave us a lift back to the trolley stop.
This Porsche 917 is a Le Mans lap record holder.

We were also taken by the Allard-Cadillac on display and the unrestored Daytona Cobra, CSX2287, with Bonneville heritage.

I sent some Bugatti pictures to Joe Saward, who replied with many thanks.
Pics by Annette.

The things they carried

One of the pressing questions on the Le Mans tour by Brompton bicycle was what luggage to take and particularly what bike spares and tools. We settled on one spare tyre, two inner tubes and a multi-tool. We experienced little difficulty. We pumped up the tyres prior to departure and left well enough alone, not wishing to provoke an inner-tube failure around the valve, not unknown to Brompton riders. My older machine required the rubber block suspension to be tightened en route, the handlebar gear-lever to be adjusted and the front luggage attachment to be tightened also. Hence the two machines covered 500 road miles (250 each) without any real trouble. Outstanding.

By Brompton to Le Mans 2011

The Le Mans tour 2011 started with a dress rehearsal at Gurston Down Hill Climb the Sunday before departure. £10 per adult for a pleasant afternoon of motor sport in the Wiltshire countryside. Don't let the farmyard location fool you into thinking this is not serious racing.

So after watching the gifted amateurs it was time to set sail for Le Mans to see the pros. Thursday June 3 we caught the 09:30 Newhaven-Dieppe ferry with our fully-loaded Brompton bicycles. I was sporting a new front carrier bag, lightweight sweater (borrowed) and high-viz waterproof. Jack is riding the long-wheelbase orange Brompton with custom built handlebars.

We cheated by taking the train from Lewes to Newhaven deeming the road routes too hazardous (I tackled the west bank in 2008. See PunchBuggy Passim.)
The ferry bar was soon out of baked goods to go with our coffee and Dieppe was reached after a light gargle. We were first off the car deck having followed an old hand to the correct ramp away from the trucks. We set off into Dieppe in the hot sun busking our way westward out of town. After a long descent and climb we diverted to Offranville in search of a bank and to escape the onshore wind. We were soon broiling in the afternoon sun and glad to reach Bénesville, after a pitstop in St Laurent-en-Caux. Orangina never tasted so good. We couldn't find our digs and I suffered two bouts of cramp in my thighs shortly before arrival - an occurence new to me - now I know why those guys are hopping about on the Tour de France. After twenty miles we found the delightful chateau for our night stop, madame serving Kir Normande as I flopped on a recliner on the lawn. A four course dinner followed: fish pâté, Coquille St. Jacques, cheeseboard and fresh fruit washed down with white wine followed by red and a shot of vintage Calvados and we were all set for an early night. Next morning after a splendid breakfast madame insisted we take bananas and bottled water for the route. Excellent value and highly recommended. Propriétaire: BEATRICE MAZURIER, Téléphone: 0663061805.
After a baptism of fire the first day the weather moderated and we took the routes du boeuf to Caudebec-en-Caux on the Seine, pausing for coffee and trail food en route. The descent into Caudebec turned hairy as I got onto the marbles at speed, letting a van pass, but gathered it up by not over-reacting. We arrived by 13:00 stopping for lager before checking in at the Normotel by the Seine. A frosty receptionist made us doubt the wisdom of staying in hotels when France is peppered with friendly Chambre D'Hotes. We did what sightseeing you can do in Caudebec, the day culminating in a pasta supper al fresco at a windy cafe.
Next morning it was across the Pont de Brotonne (no longer a toll bridge) and sharp right following the Seine downstream. An ominous chevron on the map told of a 300-foot climb to Bourneville. Jack won the Index of Performance by climbing the whole way while a push was rewarding for me, seeing two deer in the woods. Jack was already buying bananas when I reached Bourneville, but a pot of tea soon revived us. We took the country roads to reach the valley of the Risle at Montfort where we lunched in a bus shelter. The simple task of reaching Brionne was complicated by taking the voies vertes on an old rail line at Le Bec Hellouin and overshooting in the woods due to a lack of signposts. A moutainous diversion via Calleville added at least five miles to the day. We found a bar in Brionne, known to us, before reaching our digs at the Coeur de Lion. A snooze before dinner concluded the longest day of the tour at about 35 miles. See here for B&B.
The weather was wet on departure next morning but the rural route was clearly signposted all the way to Rugles, a timesaver as we did not have frequent stops to check the map. A pot of tea at Beaumont-le-Roger was most welcome - no milk for me as the hot milk served is unappetising and black tea proved the perfect antidote to dyspepsia. Unaccustomed to cycling hard right after breakfast my stomach was grumbling. But I was beginning to hit my stride, side drafting the Kellett Express in our own version of the flying wedge. Charitable Frenchmen yell "Bon regard" and "Chapeau" when they hear we are going long distance. On arrival at Rugles the town was closed, as on every Monday, and we were shown the door in the bar after a short stay. Madame at the digs slipped us a bottle of cider to compensate - no charge.
The fifth day felt like the moment of truth. It is one thing to go cycling and quite another to keep going day after day. We set off down the main road right after breakfast and it was taking me an hour or so to hit my stride. An early stop at L'Aigle was suitable for tea and market shopping. I took a photograph of Jack posing with a plaster Maitre D outside our café. Then on quieter roads to Le Mêle-sur-Sarthe, taking a rural set lunch en route. Arriving mid-afternoon we lodged the bikes in an outhouse at the Hotel de la Poste before doing the bars and a creperie. Appetites multiply on a bike tour. Again the hotel seemed something of a letdown after the more attentive alternatives. Wifi was most welcome.

Next morning I sat on the wall outside the hotel in the sunshine guarding the luggage while Jack rushed about fetching the bikes and settling the bill. On to St Mars Sous Ballon via Mamers, where we take tea. Brother Julian is texting us for news. We have left Normandy behind and are heading for Le Mans. After boozing in the hilltop town of Ballon we spend an evening in a rural restaurant, gazing out at a trout pond. We are the only customers. Delightful. Restaurant: Les Nymphéas Creperie Saladerie Grill, L'Auberderie, 72290 Saint-Mars-sous-Ballon. Téléphone: 02.43.25.21.15. Accomodation: Jean-François LEMAIRE, Les chambres du Verger, Le Verger, 72290 Saint-Mars-sous-Ballon. Mobile: 0671040513.

An early start next morning (Day 7) and we are shortly in the suburbs of Le Mans at Coulaines. Then we burst onto the quai in the centre past the cathedral by the Sarthe, wrong slotting on the exit of the city and taking a hair-raising ride on the périphérique to recover our way. An early paella lunch at Casino in Allones and Jack races ahead to get the keys to the cabin at Camping du Houssay in Spay at 12:30. We have ridden some 185 miles so far, and there is more to come.

We stock up the cabin with food and drink before heading to Guécelard along the back roads to see Pete Webber, taking a bow for our exertions. There is a noticeable lack of punters in the bars and restaurants compared to previous years. The bars in Spay are empty/shut on race weekend and the strip in Arnage is a shadow of its former self on Saturday morning. The £5 pint of lager and some gouging on food is driving folk away. The ACO have added insult to injury by hiking the general admission price for the 24 Hours from 57 to 67 euros - not the year for a near 20% increase. (I scored a discounted ticket at 50 euros.)
Dave Roadway appears mid-evening Thursday and we head off by car to Mouliherne and Saumur on Friday, with bike rides in both places on our folders. Dave is aboard the Dahon 16spd with 26" wheels. A visit to the Loire valley is an unexpected bonus and I get my washing done to boot.
Friday James and Ian show up from the UK, with an intriguing gearless folding bike made in China. Jack and I watch the start of the race at Arnage which is fairly full but not unpleasantly so - the big screen shows the battle between McNish and Bourdais - a classic which was cut short by a massive shunt by the Audi driver which left the car wrecked and some brilliant photos for the Sunday papers. Mike Rockenfeller later bit the armco quite viciously and Audi were down to one contender. But the car of Treluyer, Fassler and Lotterer soldiered on to win. Peugeot did just about everything right and came up 13.8 seconds short.
No rushing off before the finish this year as we go the distance at Mulsanne. A wet visit to Guécelard on Sunday night to watch the Canadian GP is unrewarding as we head home in the red flag period and miss the outstanding drive of Jenson Button. The generous hospitality at Club Motorsport is considerable compensation.
By early Monday we are down to two at the cabin and we head for La Suze sur Sarthe, reaching there in a shower. We stop at Roézé-sur-Sarthe on the way, for tea, and you half expect Steve McQueen to be heading up the road in a Porsche 911. Jack points out the many French classic bicycles, including Motobecane, which are unloved and now overwhelmed by a flood of cheap imports.
The trip ends with a ride into Le Mans on the Tuesday, TGV to Paris, a ride across Paris to the Gare du Nord and home by Eurostar via Ashford. We have ridden 250 miles (400km) in all.

Plus Points: Long distance cycling, reliable Brompton bikes, Chambre D'Hotes, SNCF.

Downsides: French hotels, Le Mans ticket prices, closed bars and cafes, Radio Le Mans (dull as usual), no wifi on SNCF.

Overall: Well organised, good company, health benefits, superb race, roll on 2012.

Only one Audi

Peugeot were a real threat to Audi at Le Mans - they beat all the German cars bar one - but the German diesel driven by the Dane Tom Kristensen, Rinaldo Capello of Italy and Allan McNish of Britain finished first, to thwart the French team which fielded the fastest cars on the track.
The annual tour from Sussex started early this year with an advance party leaving at 12:00 on Thursday 5 June. Les frères Thomas were headed for the Brompton Tour de Normandie. The sailing from Newhaven to Le Havre on the M/V SEVEN SISTERS of LD Lines, followed a gentle eight mile run from Lewes. Two single tickets for foot passengers with bikes cost £34. Pasta Carbonara on the boat was ordinary at £6.95, but the ship was pleasantly uncrowded. The two red Brompton bikes were first off the boat at Le Havre where after recceing the town we inadvertantly opted for a stay at a brothel near the bus station. We retreated to the Navy Bar round the corner. A quick breakfast outside the railway station was followed by an early departure at 07:10 by bus for Caen, which put us ahead of the other patrons. The bikes folded neatly into the belly lockers for the trip via Honfleur.
On arrival in Caen we headed for Tourist Information which put us on track for the Archives du Calvados for some family research. After lunch we checked into the Hotel des Quatrans, 17 rue Gémare, where the Bromptons slotted one-by-one into the world's smallest lift. We dined at the Saigon Restaurant, and finished off the evening at les Touristes cafe. Caen presents a chic face to the world after the dock town low-life of Le Havre.
Leaving Caen next morning we climbed out of the town in heavy traffic, heading south-east reaching St Sylvain for lunch, beer and a sandwich au jambon. We completed the afternoon run to St Pierre sur Dives for two nights where we dined luxuriously at the hotel the first night and found a creperie on the Sunday night after a frantic search for somewhere in France still open. We made a side trip to Cambremer and a visit to Madame Huet on the farm at "La Vignerie" 14340 Saint Laurent du Mont Tel: 02 31 63 08 65 on our day off. Julian wanted to visit a bar in Crevecoeur, remembered from a previous tour, which proved to be heartbreak hotel as they blanked us at the bar after one drink. We moved on to Cambremer where I took Sunday lunch at Au P'tit Normand [02 31 320 320], a splendid omelet paysanne with wine, €20 including a generous tip. The lady pursued me out of the restaurant to express her gratitude.
We are getting into hilly country with much push and glide progress. We climbed to Le Billot next day where we had the lunch uniquement of horsemeat, fried egg and frites. Two nights at Vimoutiers with the Brit expats at La Couronne, 9 rue du 8 mai, [33 (0)2 67 21 49]. We walked to Camembert in the morning where there was no bar/restaurant so we beat a hasty retreat. We reach Gacé via Le Sap where Julian falls off the Brompton in the town square with no real harm done. We check into Castel Morphee, 2 rue de Lisieux, for two nights, grateful to reach our rendezvous without any serious bike trouble. The front luggage carriers on the Bromptons proved well up to the task. We spend time at the Café de la Gare which is a time-warp establishment run by a splendid old lady. Sadly the old station building has been demolished since our last visit. We face the usual rudeness at the L'Etoile d'Or, best avoided when in Gacé.
We meet up with the tour party at the Restaurant Tahiti, which has changed hands after many years in the same family. They arrive in good time in the Mercedes V220 CDI and Land Rover Freelander. The Merc left Little Commom at 05:45 for a Channel Tunnel crossing at 07:20 and an RV with the Freelander at Cheriton. Shopping at the Intermarché and the run into Spay, by the canal and the River Sarthe, for check-in at Camping Houssay. There is a computer glitch which causes a short delay; how camping has changed over the years. We soon take possession of chalet No 4 "Mimosa" and after a barbecue we assemble the bikes for the run to Guécelard, where Kyla Brox is entertaining the punters at Club Motorsport. Numbers are somewhat down on previous years.
Bryan Hurt is aboard the Haro DX with Shimano 21 spd, Dave Roadway sports the Dahon 16spd with 26" wheels. On the tiddlers are Nigel Lewis with the infamous Bugatti Royal, Jack Kellett with the magnificent 2007 Brompton Titanium 6 spd, Richard Banks with the familiar Pashley Fold-It, Andy Thomas on the Universal, and the two red Bromptons for the remaining Thomas brothers. On our return Julian punctures, Nigel loses his chain [and marbles] and Richard sheds a small but vital part of the Fold-It so we are down to seven bikes next day. Despite an extensive search the petite pièce cannot be retrieved. Jack soon mends the Brompton puncture with a new tube.
After purchasing our tickets at the track - Dave scores a bootleg pass at €30 - we take lunch at the Bar Le PN Restaurant by the level-crossing at the top end of Arnage prior to the start of the 24 hours. Jack retrieves a rucksack left there the year before. We watch the start of the race from the Porsche curves before cycling to the ACO clubhouse to meet Matthew Marsh, 2007 race competitor, for a brief chat. Back to Spay and Saturday evening at the Cafe de la Gare, an old tram stop. The younger element walk to the track and back - about 8 miles - and reappear in the small hours. Sunday we head to Mulsanne for the now traditional end of the race which finished this year at 15:00. Overall the race does not seem to be buzzing with spectators by comparison, although 250,000 are claimed by the ACO and the standard of actual racing is well up. Radio Le Mans continues its sad decline - the dreary Geordie proving unlistenable with the usual advertorial blather.
We leave for the Coeur de Lion B&B at Brionne which we reach in good order with plenty of time in hand. Pre-dinner drinks in the bars of the town. Supper at our usual pizzeria was not quite up to snuff compared to previous years and we resolve to try the creperie next year. After a more than adequate breakfast we depart for Calais, via Rouen. The satnav lady guides us through the morning traffic as we cross the Seine on the last leg of the tour. There are clear glimpses of Blighty with the White Cliffs of Dover from the the French motorway. The usual lunch at Flunch at Cité Europe, good value, followed by supermarket shopping. I research the price of cassis at Carrefour and purchase a couple of bottles for good measure. Back to Kent via the tunnel after a short delay, loaded with booty in cardboard boxes.

Plus points: superb cycling, no serious breakdowns, live-music [Kyla on best form yet].
Downsides: price of admission at Le Mans continues to climb at €62 for Enceinte Générale; Radio Le Mans; rudeness at L'Etoile d'Or in Gacé [best avoided]. Greatly increased prices in France due to Euro inflation.
Overall: A classic race in mixed weather conditions. A fifth Audi victory in a row. A well-organized tour.

It is that time of year

Fifty-five Le Mans entries for Le Circuit de la Sarthe. Entry list here.

Heading for Daytona

Tomorrow I'm leaving a snowy Toronto behind and flying down to Florida for the Daytona sportcar race this weekend. Following his successful debut in the Le Mans 24 Hours in 2007, Matthew Marsh will drive a Ferrari F430 in the Rolex Daytona 24 Hours at Daytona Beach, Florida on January 26/27, 2008.
He will be sharing car #56, a Ferrari 430, with reigning FIA GT champion Thomas Biagi, Christian Montanari from Italy and Spaniard Luis Monzon. The car will be run by the Italian Mastercar team.
Matthew will share the track with NASCAR stars Juan Pablo Montoya, Jimmie Johnson, Kurt Busch and AJ Allmendinger. Last year's Indianapolis 500 winner Dario Franchitti is also in the field, along with Dan Wheldon and Alex Lloyd. Helio Castroneves, a two-time Indy 500 champion and winner of ABC's "Dancing with the Stars" in November is also entered. Watch out also for Andy Wallace and Milka Duno – both stars of my smart car to Le Mans film.
The race will start on Saturday January 26th at 1:30 pm with qualifying held on Thursday January 24th. Matthew drove car #83 at the 2007 Le Mans, a Ferrari 430 GT of the GPC team, which retired after 21 hours.

You can follow the progress of the event here: http://www.matthewmarsh.net/
I will be blogging live from the circuit.

Plan B at Le Mans

Depart Lewes at 06:05 for Little Common with Nigel Lewis and Richard Banks in a Ford Mondeo 2 litre Zetec estate. Listening to Terry Garoghan, with his Brighton comic songs; magpies and rabbits by the roadside. Arrive at Jack Kellett's and transfer to 2003 Mercedes 'V' Class diesel. Quick look at Porsche 911/964 Targa in the garage. Pick up Tim Pepper at Bexhill.
Arrive at Channel Tunnel at 07:25 after 50 miles with the sun trying to break through. Avoid the Cheriton Services rip-off, with juice and croissant kindly supplied by Jack. Listening to Dave Edmunds "Sweet Little Lisa" with Albert Lee on guitar. Depart 08:25 with more music - Willie Nelson, Steve Forbert, Danny Gatton as we emerge from the tunnel. Lose an hour, watches forward.
Lunch at Restaurant Le Berbère in Neufchatel-en-Bray. Set lunch €11.50, total bill €84. France seems diminished without the Franc.
A serious navigational error has us going round in a circle and back to where we started. We then get the hammer down via Rouen on the motorway to Gacé. Heavy rain sees us abandoning plans for camping and we check into a Chambre d’Hôte, Castel Morphee, at 2 rue de Lisieux. Beer in the sun at the Bar de La Poste in the Place de la Libération after supermarket shopping. I chose a Pinot de Charente to start the picnic. We sat under a balcony at the hotel and had a jolly meal, despite the intermittent rain. We withdrew indoors when it got cold to play pool with coffee and calvados. The boys drink Irish Paddy Whiskey and are regretting it next day. In bed by midnight. The rooms in the quaint hotel had names - mine was Reverie. Splendid continental breakfast in the Salle a manger, looking forward to the France-Ouest newspaper. Gacé, a traditional stop on the tour: the more we stay here, the more we get to like it.
The 'V' Class has suffered from a pneumatic failure in the rear suspension. We call out the emergency service via England which arrives promptly at our rendezvous in the Place de la Libération. Arnaud, the driver, rapidly transfers us to the M-B dealer in Alençon. So no Folding-Bike Tour de Normandie or blow-out lunch at the Restaurant Tahiti. Quel chagrin!
We take lunch at McDonalds in Alençon as Dave Roadway, tour counterpart, catches up with us in his Toyota Avensis diesel. He presents our apologies at the Restaurant Tahiti, on a quick pitstop prior to meeting us in Alençon. We are delayed at the dealers by the French two-hour lunch break at Normandie Etoile Automobiles but the wagon is fixed by 15:30. I photograph the new smart car and Renault Twingo while we wait.
We fill up with diesel in Spay and head to the campsite. By good fortune we are offered a chalet called "Mimosa" which is cheap but very cheerful. We get organised in time to cycle to Guecelard, to see old friend Pete Webber and the Kyla Brox band. The runners and riders are:

Jack Kellett, Brompton titanium 6-spd 2007, blue [Owner J. Kellett]
Rupert Lloyd Thomas, Brompton 3-spd 1997, red [Owner J. Kellett]
Richard Banks, Brompton 5-spd 2007, green [Owner J. Kellett]
Nigel Lewis, Pashley Fold-It 5-spd 1997 [Owner J. Kellett]
Neil Turpin, Raleigh RSW16 folder/compact c.1964, silver/grey, owner/rider
Bryan Hurt, Haro DX 2007 21-spd folding mountain bike, owner/rider
Dave Roadway, ancient Universal 3-spd, 1 gear working, red
Tim Pepper, Toreador 6-spd c.2006, black & red [Owner J. Kellett]

The cycle ride substitutes for the cancelled event in the morning - Nigel Lewis is man-of-the-match for his powerful efforts on the Pashley Fold-It, Dave Roadway gets best efforts on the Universal, while Jack Kellett and Richard Banks carry off the new teamwork award. Kyla Brox is already in full flow when we arrive and the live music is the best yet seen at the campsite. Kyla gives me a CD to play on Rocket FM.
Saturday morning we take breakfast at the Café Le Physa'lis in Spay and then we head to the track to meet Matt Baile and Colin Marsh who are supporting Matthew Marsh in his first Le Mans attempt in the Ferrari 430 #83. There is last minute angst over who gets to drive the car first.
We retreat to the Bar Le PN Restaurant by the level-crossing at the top end of Arnage for lunch prior to the start of the 24 hours. We are the only occupants of a large dining room in the back and we wonder where all the punters are. We cycle to Arnage curves for the start of the race where a bumper crowd gets first sight of the cars. After about ninety minutes we return to Spay for a barbecue on a brilliantly improvised stove consisting of bricks brought from England along with Woolworth's trays and some square drainage pipe scrounged at the site. The Thomas brothers appear in the red VW Polo after a two-week camping trip. I'm bushed so retreat to the bar in Spay and watch the race on the big screen while the younger element return to the track. Richard Banks comes a cropper on his Brompton in the notorious culvert in the lane running alongside the garage bleu. While rather battered thank goodness there are no broken bones.
On sunday we derig and take the truck to Arnage where we unload the bikes for the Porsche curves. No sign of the Ferrari #83. Rain is ever threatening and we sprint back to Bar Le PN Restaurant just before the heavens open. We sit under the awnings outside while prodding the canvas periodically as gallons of water pours from above. The race goes under the safety car at the end and we abandon any idea of returning to the track. Audi win the race once more but without the crushing superiority of years gone by.
We drive through the centre of Le Mans and take the A28 north to Brionne. We search for a hotel without success until a stop at the Restaurant du Havre for drinks turns up digs at Le Coeur de Lion run by a young Scottish couple by the lake. €21 each including breakfast, highly recommended. We reserve a table for ten at the Restaurant Don Camillo, known to us from years past. Next morning via Bourg-Achard and the Pont de Brotonne to the motorway, listening to Kevin Ayers and Françoise Hardy on the road to Calais. Lunch at Flunch at Cité Europe at Cocquelles and the train through the tunnel.

Plus points: Good digs, cycling, live music, camaraderie.
Downsides: Lousy weather, no cycling in Normandy, no Restaurant Tahiti, Cheriton prices [again], Radio Le Mans [again].
Overall: Weather failed to dampen our spirits.